So don't know what's going on today, but the template for this blog seems to be messed up. There's like a sizing calculation that's wrong. I can adjust the width of the background and the width of the menu, but I can't adjust the width of the posts (it's auto calculated). As a result the navigation is showing up below the posts. I tried quick to edit the template, but it didn't work. Guess I'll just have to wait for Google to fix it...
Ordered the last of the parts for the engine. Fuel line to pump fittings and hose, starter bolts, bellhousing bolts, serpentine belt (Gates 6-rib at 80.6"), heater core fittings, and of course u-joints with straps. The u-joints will show up today. They're Spicer solid body (no maintenance) 1350 joints. The conversion u-joint (1350 to 1310) only comes with a grease fitting. When I was figuring out the status of the current u-joints, I noticed that one of the halfshafts was installed wrong. It didn't really make a difference in the functionality, but it'll be good to have it on there right.
So the heater core situation is interesting... Since I changed to that CVR electric water pump, I lost the place that you would normally connect the heater core. However, the pump does have the bypass port on top (unlike many electric pumps). It took me a while to figure out what that top port was actually for and what it was called, but once I did, it was easier to investigate how to solve my problem. I sent messages to Vintage Air (A/C system company) and to Summit Racing to see if they had any suggestions on what to do, but after a few days of no responses I did the investigation myself.
It turns out that the lines coming into the water pump are all return lines (including the bypass port). The only outputs are in the arms that bolt to the engine block. The bypass port is normally used to go from the intake manifold to the water pump so that when the thermostat is closed coolant still circulates by flowing into the water pump (the thought is that the engine will heat up faster). More often than not, this port is simply plugged. Since the missing heater core hook-up is also a return path for coolant, there should be no issues with using the bypass port instead. In fact, the two fittings are the same NPT (pipe fitting) size. I ordered an aluminum 45 degree NPT to hose barb fitting to connect up the hose. I should mention that the old fittings were NOT reusable... The fitting on the old aluminum intake manifold was steel! Steel and aluminum do not mix! The steel was rusted. As for the fitting on the old pump, it was steel as well and straight (at least the pump wasn't aluminum) so it would not have been good for my new aluminum pump or direction of hose.